Graduates of the Fashion Institute of Technology’s (FIT) Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management Master’s Degree Program (CFMM) presented their Capstone Research on June 22, 2022, at FIT’s Haft Theater. The two-part global study focused on Beauty After Covid: Reformation and Renaissance, and examined the ways in which beauty organizations are adapting to the new beauty consumer and employee expectations, as the industry moves forward.

Dr. Joyce F. Brown, president, Fashion Institute of Technology, introduced by Jerry Vittoria, president fine fragrance worldwide, Firmenich and chair, CFMM Industry Advisory Board, set the stage with a moving welcome to the graduating class of 2022, saying, “This year is an extra special event because we’re here, live and in-person.”

She noted the challenges of the previous two virtual Capstone presentations, and credited the students for their skill and determination in spite of covid and the deep distance created by a remote environment. In anticipation of the presentation, which Brown noted would explore consumer shifts and changing values within the beauty industry, she said, “Our students this year tackled a topic that could not be more timely.”

She congratulated Stephan Kanlian, chair and professor, CFMM, who guides the program; acknowledged The Fragrance Foundation, for its generous scholarship support; and introduced Liza Rapay, head of marketing, Cosmoprof North America/Bologna Fiere USA, global partner and sponsor of this year’s research. Rapay, a 2011 graduate of the program, acknowledged the continuing support beyond graduation, of Kanlian and Dr. Brooke Carlson, interim dean, School of Graduate Studies, FIT; and highlighted the co-organization of a packaging program and panel, to be held at Cosmoprof North America, in July.

Kanlian introduced the presentation, citing the impact of the pandemic on corporate culture and work-life balance. He said that the class of 2022 had examined, in Part One, how beauty organizations can reform internal behaviors to unlock potential and thrive; and in Part Two, how tensions and advances in technology have catalyzed the rebirth of the new beauty consumer, namely, the Reformation and Renaissance of Beauty. The analysis included quantitative and qualitative research, with 900 respondents, global field work, and interviews with beauty executives and market experts across the globe.

Part One: Beauty Reformation

Students acknowledged that the pandemic reshaped our lives and contributed to a reassessment of the ways we live and work. Lía DeSola, global brand development, Unilever, and Jamie O’Brien, global marketing and product innovation, SkinCeuticals/L’Oréal USA, were the group leaders of Part One, examining The Beauty Reformation. The Beauty Reformation Team consisted of Alexa Krynicki, beauty product marketing, Chanel, and Phyllis Orozco, sales & marketing, ArtCosmetics. The creative team was Ségolène Dewey, fragrance development, Firmenich Inc., and Marissa Squeri, marketing & product development, Maesa. White Paper Team was Michelle Imperiale, promo development, L’Oréal USA, Katherine Desloge, marketing & product innovation, CeraVe/L’Oréal, and Gabrielle Zwyer, planning, Shiseido Americas Corporation. Consumer Research lead was Joshua Borzooyeh, customer marketing, Coty. In what they called “The Great Resignation,” students noted a mass exit from the workforce, which has impacted the industry and spurred new thinking about ways to restore and reinvigorate a contemporary work/life balance. They said that “The Great Resignation” would require extensive retraining; and that beauty corporations and employees were facing unprecedented challenges. 

Regarding structure, 53% of industry professionals said structure and policies often stifle agility and experimentation; 80% of industry professionals said a five-day work week is an outdated model; 71% said they would look for another job if they weren’t granted flexibility to work from home; and 42% felt their workplace was unprepared for a hybrid future (Source: FIT Workplace Survey, 2022).

“It’s time for organizations to work toward “Beauty’s Great Reformation,” said students. Their findings suggested that, “Organizations need to prioritize agility, flexibility, and diversity,” and championed the creation of a Chief Agility Officer, to enact changes in the current environment.

Further, students acknowledged that burnout is a great challenge for employees, and their research found that 83% of employees seek a manager with empathy, and an environment in which personal purpose is encouraged. They created the CIRCLE model, in which four areas of importance were emphasized, to address the complexity of post-pandemic challenges.

CIRCLE includes:  Culture, which defined organizational and personal purpose, as well as time flexibility; Resources, which included the creation of a Chief Agility Officer (CAO), building a Central Artificial Intelligence hub (CAI); and creating a pool of flexible freelancers. In addition, Leadership, which would shine a spotlight on a high potential female leader, for example, and encourage change-making via workplace diversity, and the replacement of ineffective hierarchies with an adaptive hierarchy. This, they said, would flatten the organization, and increase speed and creativity, and enhance retention of talent. Finally, Environment, which would bring the model full circle, by appealing to new employee needs, leveraging the Metaverse and embracing fluidity.

Students urged a form of radical transparency to drive synergies and enhance talent retention. Issues of safety and wages were also notable, with 37% of respondents saying they felt less safe working in an office environment. It was suggested that organizations integrate nature into the work environment to foster creativity; customize work spaces to enhance productivity; offer purposeful AI integration; and encourage women to return to the workplace after childbirth, by offering childcare. In sum, organizations must work to provide flexible solutions. The CIRCLE model would be inter-connected and inter-dependent, yielding a Reformation that is diverse, culturally aware, environmentally sensitive, and supported by adroit leadership.

Part Two:  Beauty Renaissance

Corey Fenton, US marketing, L’Oréal USA, and Nicole Martino, marketing & innovation, PPI Beauty, were group leaders of The Beauty Renaissance. The research team consisted of Shir-el Teboul, e-commerce, L’Oréal, and Alex Alfaro Garcia, scent design, IFF. Creative team was Shir-el Teboul, e-commerce, L’Oréal, and Aldana Ferrer Garcia, global visual merchandising, Estée Lauder; White Paper Team was Christina Madsen, omni shopper marketing, L’Oréal; Maria Llanos, global marketing, Nars Cosmetics, and Amanda Rand, marketing, CoverGirl/Coty Inc.; and consumer research lead was Randy Malm, digital marketing, innovation and e-commerce, L’Oréal USA. The students noted that as the Renaissance was born out of a period of darkness, consumers post-covid are grappling with a similar sense of darkness, which they termed “languishing.” However, as innovations in the arts, society and culture took place in the Renaissance, today there is a similar flowering of possibilities for realignment and change.

This emotional and technological realignment has spawned an emphasis on developing a landscape where authentic actions are valued. It enables “igniting relationships, and reflecting on ourselves,” said students, to create a sense of “care-nection,” a term coined by the students to highlight the importance of interactive experiences, bringing consumers together, shared ownerships and taking a stand on social issues.

As the lines blur between the physical and digital worlds, beauty consumers are finding innovative ways to interact with brands, while at the same time experiencing anxiety brought about by the rapid expansion of technology. The research revealed that 67% of respondents placed importance on taking time for mental health; and sought brands that built trust with them. Statistics also showed that 62% (in the 18-29 age group), had feelings of restlessness and lower energy; 57% stated they had changed the way they interact with new people since the pandemic began; and 66% showed a distrust or fear of companies or brands acquiring their data (Source: FIT CFMM Consumer Survey, 2022).

While tech acceptance is growing, “The Neo Consumer” seeks a landscape that allows a seamless navigation of online and offline worlds; one that allows the “Real Me” to live in the moment, and value in-person connections and experiences; as well as the “Meta Me,” which sees consumers enjoying new forms of expression and experimentation with technology and the Metaverse. Further, it emphasizes technology’s role in assuring authenticity. Beauty brands must future-proof their businesses and inspire consumers to come together and emotionally invest in each other and the brand; that is, to build a relevant universe that goes beyond trust to “Factual-Faith,” prioritizing transparency into products, process, and progress; and exemplifying the concept of “show me that you know me.” The students’ research introduced the concept of “I-mmersion,” which would provide tools for consumers to express themselves creatively across platforms and worlds.

Consumers wants more eco-traceability, rebuilding of trust, and assurance of authenticity. Students concluded that the beauty industry must transcend traditional thinking, go beyond product, and beyond trust via inter-collectivity, Factual-Faith, and the blurring of lines between reality and the Metaverse. Actions for success will require the right tools to “bring the magic back and expand the possibilities.”

The Awards Ceremony

Following the research presentation, Dr. Brooke Carlson, interim dean, School of Graduate Studies, FIT, introduced the Awards Ceremony, which each year presents honors in the following categories: Outstanding Scholar Award and Scholarship Recognition; Coty Award for Professional Excellence; Estée Lauder Companies Faculty Leadership Award; L’Oréal Student Leadership Award; and the Department Medal.

Scholarship Recognition Award Winners were: Ségolène Dewey, marketing and product innovation, CeraVe/L’Oréal; Jamie O’Brien, global marketing and product innovation, PPI Beauty; Lía De Sola, global brand development, Unilever; Corey Fenton, US marketing, L’Oréal USA; Shir-el Teboul, e-commerce, L’Oréal; and Outstanding Scholar Award Winner was Joshua Borzooyeh, customer marketing, Coty, Inc.

The Coty Award for Professional Excellence was presented to Kory Marchisotto, chief marketing officer, ELF Beauty, and president, Keys Soulcare. The Estée Lauder Faculty Leadership Award was presented to Mark Polson, associate professor, Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management, FIT. The L’Oréal Student Leadership Award winner was Jamie O’Brien, senior manager, global marketing and product innovation, SkinCeuticals/L’Oréal USA. The final award of the evening, the Department Medal, was presented to Corey Fenton, assistant vice president, US Marketing, L’Oréal Paris Hair Care/Elvive.

Kanlian concluded the evening with a video clip from Capstone’s 2012 presentation celebrating Diversity and Global Leadership. Its closing message, “Beauty belongs to the billions that honor our common humanity, engagement and community, and allows us to approach each with a sense of interest and mutual respect.”

The CFMM Program

The FIT Master of Professional Studies (MPS) in Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management (CFMM) program, was developed in collaboration with industry as a leadership development program for outstanding mid-career executives. Global luxury firms including Chanel, Shiseido, Estée Lauder, L’Oréal and LVMH, and consumer packaged goods companies, including Coty and Unilever, nominate emerging executives to participate in the two-year program.

The CFMM program has become the beauty industry’s think tank, producing high level research presented to industry executives and organizations, and during specialized panels, symposia and forums in academia and industry.